Gallivanting 2017
Captain’s Blog, Monday, July 17th, 2017
A busy day was planned. The long list included; laundry, groceries, beer, a gas tank, diesel fuel, propane, something to resolve the bilge siphoning and if time permits, a haircut.
After lots of walking, we were successful on most accounts, with the exception of diesel and propane, which are scheduled for tomorrow morning.
The Captain of the Whale Watching boat, very generously volunteered his truck to get diesel and propane. Thank you, Captain.
Captain’s Blog, Tuesday, July 18th, 2017
With our list now complete, we weigh anchor at 12:30 and head out the harbour. Before heading south, we decided to visit a rather spectacular iceberg sitting just offshore.
The St. Anthony berg
We remained at least a quarter mile from these gigantic chunks of ice, while enjoying and taking pictures.
After that awesome tour we head south to an anchorage at the bottom/head of Maiden’s Arm.
Captain’s Blog, Wednesday, July 19th, 2017
It was another beautiful summer day on the Northern Peninsular. The night was so quiet that I once woke and didn’t know where I was. What…? no wind in the rigging.
The pool at the bottom/head of Maiden’s Arm is a secluded, wild, protected anchorage with good holding. After a leisurely breakfast in a wilderness environment, I made some refinements to my NMEA connections.
We weigh anchor at 10:00 and head out the arm, through the tickle and south toward the community of Conche. The winds are south (on the nose), so we are motoring in a 10 to 15 kt wind. The wind drops off in the PM.
Shortly after 14:00, we get a visit from a very rambunctious pod of dolphins. These fun creatures played around our boat for at least a half hour. Amidst all the action, a large whale surfaced as he/she headed north. I believe that Cetaceans are some of the most interesting living creatures on our planet.
Dolphins
Dolphins are locally known as “Jumpers”
A humpback whale
By 15:00, we had rounded Cape Fox and wow, another large iceberg at the entrance to Conche harbour. We do another iceberg tour, before tying up at the public wharf.
Betty, checking out the bergs and whale watching
The Conche berg
After a very exciting day on the water, we are assisted and welcomed by some very friendly locals, who suggested that we attend a dinner with music starting at 17:30, which we did and very much enjoyed.
A local resident and fisherman, Paul Bromley kindly delivered fresh cod fillets to our boat. Thank you, Paul.
Dinner was followed by a very quiet evening at the dock.
Captain’s Blog, Thursday, July 20th, 2017
By 9:30, the winds were out the northeast at 15 to 20 kts and the fog moved in, followed by a light rain, known locally as drizzle.
With rain, drizzle and fog in the forecast, we decide to stay at the dock another night.
In the afternoon, we visit the French Shore Interpretation center, a most interesting and impressive project of the people of Conche.
Conche
In the evening, we pan fried some of the fresh cod provided by Paul. Thanks again, Paul.
We enjoyed a quiet windless night on the public wharf in Conche.
Captain’s Blog, Friday, July 21st, 2017
Departed Conche at 10:30. We get to enjoy the iceberg at the harbour entrance for a second time.
It is just one iceberg.
The winds are still out of the south, so we are motoring.
At Englee, we heave-to and take advantage of the cell signal to get a weather forecast. Based on the weather forecast, we decided to carry on down the coast to Forche Harbour, aka Williamsport. We dropped anchor in Williamsport at 14:00. Williamsport is an abandoned whaling station.
We launched the dinghy and toured the old whaling station, the remains of the village and the cemetery.
Williamsport – An abandoned whaling station
Just before launching the dinghy we see 2 moose near the cemetery, first a female and then a male.
Captain’s Blog, Saturday, July 22nd, 2017
Our morning greeting from mother nature is the sun straight up with fog all around. There is little or no wind, when we decide to leave Forche Harbour and head across White Bay to Fleur de Lys.
For the first half of the passage, we were in fog. The fog eventually lifted and visibility improved just before the rain arrived, with a thunderstorm and heavy rain as we approached the entrance to Fleur de Lys harbour.
Captain’s Blog, Sunday, July 23rd, 2017
Today, we had a beautiful sail (with just the jib) from Fleur de Lys to La Scie, some 22 nautical miles.
The winds were southwest, 20 to 30 kts, sometimes gusting even higher. We departed Fleur de Lys at 08:15 and were tied up in La Scie by 12:00. We later learned that the floating dock is managed by the La Scie Harbour Authority and reserved for transient pleasure boats.
Captain’s Blog, Monday, July 24th, 2017
After meeting up with Clyde, the Harbour Master, we learn that the La Scie Harbour Authority has recognized the needs of recreational boaters. We would like to compliment the La Scie Harbour Authority for their approach. Showers and a laundromat are also provided. Clyde also kindly provided transportation to get groceries and get our jerry cans (diesel) filled. Thank you, Clyde.
La Scie Harbor
The day was sunny with some cloud and a fresh to strong breeze out of the Northwest.
In the afternoon, we walked across town to the Outport Museum & Tea Room. On the menu today are fish cakes, which Linda has been craving for weeks. They were amazing. We also very much enjoyed chatting with Valerie and Larry. If you’re in the area, a visit to the Outport Museum & Tea Room is highly recommended.
Sunset in a busy fishing harbor.
A little light reading before bed.
Tomorrow, we are heading for Little Bay Islands.
Captain’s Blog, Tuesday, July 25th, 2017
Before we departed La Scie at 07:30, we filled our water tanks at a wharf near the entrance to the harbour.
Weather was cloudy, with some sun and light winds. We rounded Cape St. John at 09:30 and headed south past Nipper’s Harbour and into Notre Dame Bay.
Cape St. John (note the “saw-like” cliffs …. “La Scie”)
Arrived Little Bay Islands at 13:30, to find sailboats tied up at the wharf. By evening there were 10 sailboats tied or anchored in the harbour. We had clearly arrived in popular cruising area. Notre Dame Bay is the cruising capital of Newfoundland.
Hiking at Little Bay Island
A potluck on the wharf in the evening.
Captain’s Blog, Wednesday, July 26th, 2017
In the morning, we were greeted by another beautiful summer day. After some discussion with other sailors, we decided to depart for a secluded anchorage named God’s Pocket. The suggestion being that it provided great protection. We were accompanied by Gord and Linda, who sail out of Lewisporte, the sailing center of Notre Dame Bay. Not a lot of wind, so we motor sailed.
Betty on watch
The girls looking for Whales
We arrived at 14:00 to find 3 other sailboats. Later, Gord commented that he had never seen so many boats in God’s Pocket.
With the dinghy, we harvested (collected/picked) our dinner, the biggest mussels that I have ever seen, which went real well with a bottle of Pinot Grigio.
We settled in for very comfortable evening.
Captain’s Blog, Thursday, July 27th, 2017
A very comfortable night. Departed at 09:30. Arrived South Samson Island at 14:30.
South Samson Island has a beautiful anchorage with good holding. The story is that when schooners were anticipating a storm while at Exploits Island, they would retreat to this anchorage on South Samson Island.
Captain’s Blog, Friday, July 28th, 2017
Weighed anchor at 08:00 and headed for Twillingate. With sunshine and light winds, we sailed and motor sailed through the islands of Notre Dame Bay, past Moreton’s Harbour and into Twillingate Harbour. Just before entering the Harbour, we did a 360 around the Twillingate iceberg.
Arrived Twillingate at 13:30 and tied up at a wharf with 2 sail boats and a fishing boat.
In the afternoon, the Harbour Master drove us to the service station to fill our Jerry cans. Thanks, Gordon.
In the evening, we went out to dinner with Bill and Darlene off the S/V Solstice.
We later met Eric, a resident of Twillingate, who offered to give us a tour of the town in the morning.
Captain’s Blog, Saturday, July 29th, 2017
Eric promptly collected us at 0900 and we began the day with breakfast, followed by a visit to Long Point and Sleepy Cove. We later got a tour of Eric’s house, which was also the house of his parents, built in the 1950s. Thank you, Eric.
Wayne and Eric touring his root cellar.
Since yesterday, the Twillingate iceberg had moved down the shore and was breaking up.
In the afternoon, we re-provisioned the boat with groceries and beer.
Captain’s Blog, Sunday, July 30th, 2017
We departed Twillingate at 07:15.
The weather was overcast and the winds were light. By 10:00 we were in a light rain and by 11:00 visibility is reduced in rain, drizzle and fog.
We arrived in Seldom on the south side of Fogo Island at 12:30. Seldom used to be known as “Seldom-Come-By”, back when passing sailing ships would regularly stopover in this well protected natural harbor and was “Seldom Passed By”.
We tied up at the Fisherman’s Union wharf, which is reserved for pleasure craft. In the afternoon, it is shower, laundry, then settle in ’til the rain passes.
A rainy sunset.
Captain’s Blog, Monday, July 31st, 2017
Fogo Island is a most interesting place on several different levels.
The island has a long history connected to fishing, involving the Basque, the French, the English and the Irish, and no one paid much attention for centuries.
Fogo Island is quaint and offers a glimpse of a 1950s Newfoundland outport.
One can sense the concern about a changing community. A community that is attracting celebrities and people who have more money than they know what to do with. Looking for something “off the beaten path”, they are flocking to Fogo. A rather large and expensive inn has been constructed to cater to their every need, not to mean that it will. Many of these people “from away” have purchased properties here, inflating the price of houses on the island.
What is happening in my backyard?
There is one story about a celebrity who wore a hoody during the first few days on the island. To avoid recognition, I assume. After a few days, the celebrity removed the hoody and ventured outside and was immediately recognized by a swarm of mosquitoes, locally known as “nippers”. The celebrity was last heard saying, “I’m outa here”. It’s not clear whether it was lack of recognition by the locals or too much recognition by the nippers. Somehow, I suspect that there is a difference.
Extinct
Almost Extinct.
Captain’s Blog, Tuesday, August 1st, 2017
We departed Seldom-Come-By at 08:30.
The winds are light and the fog is slowly lifting. By noon, we are experiencing large swells, likely produced by a large low pressure situated out in the middle of the Atlantic.
Source: windy.com
Arrived Lumsden at 13:45.
Captain’s Blog, Wednesday, August 2nd, 2017
We departed Lumsden at 07:45. The day was overcast, with a southerly wind at 10 kts. The swells were at least 10 feet.
To minimize the roll we unfurled the jib at 0900 and motor sailed all the way across Bonavista Bay, arriving in the Bonavista harbour at 1600.
Lobsters for dinner…..again.
Captain’s Blog, Thursday, August 3rd, 2017
Since Bonavista is the largest town we have been in for some time, we decided to spend a few days of R & R.
We again have access to a vehicle, thanks to Bob, a fellow sailor who is also visiting the area.
While re-fueling and re-provisioning, we made a few detours to visit Catalina and Elliston.
Puffins at Elliston
Captain’s Blog, Friday, August 4th, 2017
Today, we visited Cape Bonavista, with lots of whales and puffins, and Giovanni Caboto.
Giovanni Caboto
Getting a picture with Santino Caboto.
In the evening, we visited a newly opened Irish pub (established 2017), followed by a visit to more established pub, where we met Harvey and friends.
Captain’s Blog, Saturday, August 5th, 2017
We departed Bonavista at 07:45 and rounded Cape Bonavista at 08:30, then headed south into Trinity Bay.
Cape Bonavista
The wind is on the nose at 15 kts, with a mix of sun and cloud.
Rounded Horse chops at 13:30 and arrived Trinity at 15:15. Again, we saw many whales, including 3 that breached, making a big splash, unfortunately at a distance.
Horse Chops
Captain’s Blog, Sunday, August 6th, 2017
We decided to stay an extra day and tour the historic town of Trinity.
The Dock Marina on the Benjamin Lester premises site.
St. Paul’s Anglican Church, Trinity
Captain’s Blog, Monday, August 7th, 2017
We departed Trinity at 09:45 and headed for Old Bonaventure. The weather is overcast and the wind is again on the nose. The waves had built up overnight and we’re now rock’n and roll’n.
Upon our arrival at the entrance to the Old Bonaventure harbour, it appeared to be both small and full. Since we did not have a harbour chart, we decided to go around the point to New Bonaventure, only to find that it was quite exposed. So back we go to Old Bonaventure, where we slowly and gingerly entered the inner harbour and found a vacant spot at the end of the wharf, where we quickly tied up.
Old Bonaventure Harbour at dawn
Old Bonaventure is where my maternal ancestors were given land in the early 1800s, known as the Stone plantation. It included most of the north side of the harbour, including a small peninsular. Gilbert Stone, the last with the Stone name in the community moved out just recently.
The Stone family plantation
In the evening, we enjoyed a social, including a Jiggs dinner, mummers and screeching ceremonies.
Captain’s Blog, Tuesday, August 8th, 2017
With the use of Daphne’s car, we toured the Random Passage site and visited several cemeteries in the area.Thanks Daphne, for lending us your car for the day. Yes, cemeteries, after all, I’m researching my family history.
Mary Bundle?
William Stone was born in the winter of 1826 (Stone Plantation Cemetery)..
The Stone plantation Cemetery
If you look carefully, you can see a slate headstone between the roots of a mature pine tree. Likely an early Stone, or maybe a Bailey, as there was a close relationship between the two families.
Captain’s Blog, Wednesday, August 9th, 2017
We departed Old Bonaventure in rain and fog at 07:00. Visibility decreased as we passed the Ragged Islands and didn’t improve until we reached East Random Head. Northwest Arm is long and deep, with depths of approximately 300 feet.
East Random Head
At the end of the arm is Clarenville, where we arrived at 12:30. The weather has warmed up, the rain has stopped and we now have a mix of sun and cloud. We tie up at the Clarenville Yacht Club.
Captain’s Blog, Thursday, August 10th, 2017
Happy Anniversary (Clarenville)
Captain’s Blog, Friday, August 11th, 2017
We departed Clarenville at 08:00. Sun and cloud with light winds. We rounded Random Head at 10:30.
12:30 – Transited the tickle at Thoroughfare Rock and headed up Smith Sound. The wind is on the nose at 15 kts.
We arrived at Lower Lance Cove on Random Island at 14:30. Very calm conditions.
We walked up from Lower Lance Cove to find that grandmother’s old house was no longer. After meeting up with Doug, Keith and Sharon, we learned that the house was sold and relocated “up over the ridge”. We spoke briefly with Ross Stone.
We enjoyed a quiet night at the wharf in Lower Lance Cove
Captain’s Blog, Saturday, August 12th, 2017
It was another day in Lower Lance Cove. We walked in to the pond, where I went swimming as a kid.
We visited Stoneville and met Alex who invited us back later, when the crowd arrives.
In the evening, we joined the Stones in Stoneville for an evening of music and friends.
Captain’s Blog, Sunday, August 13th, 2017
Wind and rain overnight, but we were good at the wharf.
Some sunny breaks in the afternoon, but still a low fog. We left the dock at 16:30 and cruised up to Petley in the fog. We were not able to tie up at Petley, so we cruised up the sound past Upper Rocky Brook, Monroe and Gin Cove. At Harcourt, we turned and passed by Burgoynes Cove before returning to Lower Lance Cove at 20:00, where we tied up for another night.
Captain’s Blog, Monday, August 14th, 2017
It was another quiet night at the wharf in Lower Lance Cove.
In the morning, Barry Laite gave us a ride up to Petley, to visit the All Saints Anglican cemetery for a visit with 3 generations of my family.
Later, we strolled through the old village of Petley and on up the hill to “an everything” store. After buying more stuff than we could carry, we again called upon Barry for another ride, back to Lower Lance Cove. Thanks, Barry.
We departed Lower Lance Cove at 14:30 and set sail for Ireland’s Eye. For the next 2 hours, we sailed with a 20 – 30 kt. wind on the port quarter. After sailing through the tickle at Thoroughfare Rock, we entered Traytown Harbour on the island of Ireland’s Eye.
Traytown Harbour has a reputation for a number of reasons. The people who lived there for generations were resettled in the 1960s, leaving a ghost town. The harbour is a beautiful natural harbour that provides protection in the most severe weather. Today, the harbour is a significant stopover for cruising sailors. Back in 1987, drug smugglers used the harbour to import 30 tons of hashish.
We dropped anchor in the inner pool of Traytown Harbour at 16:30.
Captain’s Blog, Tuesday, August 15th, 2017
Today, we launched the dinghy and toured the harbour, then around the headland to the former village of Ireland’s Eye. It was a most relaxing day with great weather.
Captain’s Blog, Wednesday, August 16th, 2017
After sleeping in, we departed Traytown Harbour at 10:00.
The weather is overcast, the winds are light and the water is flat for our 4 hour motor across Trinity Bay to Old Perlican. The highlight of the passage was a visit by a pod of dolphins.
We arrived in Old Perlican harbour at 14:00 and tied up at a floating dock, where we were provided with a fresh cod by a generous local fisherman.
The remnants of hurricane Gert are expected to bring wind and rain to the area tomorrow and Friday, meaning that we expect be tied up for few days.
Captain’s Blog, Thursday, August 17th, 2017
Today we just hung out, did some laundry and had a long hot shower.
Captain’s Blog, Friday, August 18th, 2017
We sleep ’til nine and shortly after getting up, get a knock on the hull. Within 15 minutes we get an invite to Carbonear. Upon our arrival, Ed and Bregitta treat us to breakfast, before driving us back to the boat. Thanks guys.
With the wind picking up and white caps in the harbor, we batten down the hatches for the night.
Captain’s Blog, Saturday, August 19th, 2017
It was a very noisy night, with northerly winds at 30 kts, sometimes gusting to 40 kt. By noon, things calmed down and by evening we had sunshine.
Captain’s Blog, Sunday, August 20th, 2017
Today was a much more pleasant day, sun and cloud with a southerly wind. Before departing, we head over to the public wharf to fill our water tanks.
We departed Old Perlican at 07:00. Shortly after our departure, the s/v Finback departed for Harbour Grace. With the wind is out of the south, we unfurl the jib and managed to motor sail comfortably through Baccalieu tickle and into Conception Bay. With the wind now on the nose, we furl the jib and motor down the shore or is it up the shore..
We arrived Holyrood at 17:30, to see the largest number of sailboats that we have seen since Les Îles-de-la-Madeleine.
Captain’s Blog, Monday, August 21st, 2017
Today was R & R. We toured the marina and chatted with the Harbour Master. Later in the day, we helped John take his mast off.
We will likely haul out at this marina. We are currently looking for jack stands.
Captain’s Blog, Sunday, August 27th, 2017
Well, it has been almost a week since we tied up in Holyrood. We have been busy. We have made the necessary arrangements to be hauled out at Holyrood marina. We have made several visits to St. John’s. We have enjoyed a beer with some old friends. We have been invited to a “Jigg’s Dinner” at the Terra Nova Yacht Club.
We expect to haul out this week and are booked to fly home the following week.
Captain’s Blog, Tuesday, August 29th, 2017
Captain’s Blog, Wednesday, September 6th, 2017
Gallivanting is now put away for the winter.
Since our arrival, we have been busy grocery shopping, cleaning house, getting a haircut, and sometimes reflecting on an awesome summer. We are also in awe of the fact that we survived 12 weeks living in a confined space together. We met so many wonderful people, people who were very helpful in so many ways, providing information, assistance, fresh seafood, transportation and advice.
We are now looking forward to the summer of 2018, when we will cruise the south coast of the island of Newfoundland, before crossing over to Cape Breton. While on the south coast, we plan to include a visit to the French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon.
Captain’s Blog, Monday, September 11th, 2017
After 12 weeks of cruising the East Coast of Canada, we arrived home last Thursday.