Wind and Waves

Wind is the movement or flow of the air over the earth’s surface. The flow is caused primarily by the uneven heating by the sun. Areas of heated atmosphere are also areas of high atmospheric pressure. The air in the high pressure area (the denser air) will naturally move into the area of lower pressure (the area of less dense air).

This movement or flow of air in the atmosphere is also influenced by the rotation of the earth, known as the “Coreolis Effect“.

 Sea surface conditions (waves)are influenced by 4 factors;

        • wind speed

        • time (that the wind has been blowing out of the same direction)

        • fetch (the distance travelled by the wind over open water)

        • depth of water

First, the speed of the wind. The stronger the wind, the more it disturbs the water surface. Secondly, the length of time the wind has been blowing out of the same direction. Thirdly, the amount of open water (the distance) the wind has been blowing over from the same direction. That distance is referred to as “Fetch”.

In the mid latitudes of the northern hemisphere, weather systems generally move from west to east. A red sky in the west, as the sun sets, indicates a clear atmosphere between you and the sun, which is an indication of tomorrow’s weather.

On the other hand, a red sky in the east at sunrise suggests that the clear weather has passed and the odds are, that the “not so nice” weather is moving in from the west. In other words, you are looking through yesterday’s weather.

At sunset and sunrise, the sky appears red because the shorter blue wavelengths are filtered out by the thicker atmosphere, while the longer red wavelengths are able to get through.

Wind is described based on the direction from where it is blowing, i.e. a west wind is blowing out of the west. In marine forecasts, wind speed is expressed in knots (nautical miles per hour).

True Wind versus Apparent Wind

If you stand on a stationary dock, the wind that you feel is the true wind. If you stand on the deck of a moving boat, the wind that you feel is the apparent wind.

Waves

If you are a sailor, wind can be fun, particularly if there are no significant waves. Waves are generated by the wind.

Sea surface conditions (waves)are influenced by 4 factors;

        • wind speed

        • time (that the wind is blowing out of the same direction)

        • fetch (the distance travelled by the wind over open water)

        • depth of water

First, the speed of the wind. The stronger the wind, the more it disturbs the water surface. Secondly, the length of time the wind has been blowing out of the same direction. Thirdly, the amount of water (the distance) the wind has been blowing over open water from the same direction. That distance is referred to as “Fetch”.

The other factor impacting the sea surface is the depth of water. When waves move from deep water to shallow water, friction with the bottom slows their forward motion. As the forward motion of the waves slow, they become steeper and higher. If the water gets more shallow, the waves begin to break.

When a boater observes waves that are becoming steeper and breaking, it can be an indication of shallow water. But breaking waves can also be caused by strong winds. Breaking wavws that are caused by high winds are often referred to as whitecaps. Whitecaps begin to appear when the wind speed reachs 10 knots and increases as the wind speed increases.

Coastal Winds

Marine weather forecasts predict the speed of surface winds. Surface wind speeds over land and surface wind speeds over water can be significantly different. While the land surface includes  moutains, hills, trees, etc, the water surface is relatively flat. In other words, the relative flatness of the water results in minimum friction while the friction over the land surface is considerably higher resulting in slower surface winds.

The above “screen snip” from windy.com shows significant southwest surface winds over the great lakes. The surface winds on land over southwestern Ontario range from 15 to 25 knots, while the surface winds over Lake Erie range from 30 knots to 45 knots.

When sailing in coastal areas, boaters must also be aware that shape and elevation of the nearby land surfaces can impact local winds. The above “screen snip” from windy.com, shows the surface wind speeds with a southwest wind. In this scenario, the coasts of Labrador and the Island of Newfoundland create a narrowing channel at the water surface.  The result is increased wind speeds as the “Strait of Belle Isle” narrows.

In a Southeast or East wind, the Cabot Strait in the vicinity of “Wreckhouse” can be particularly rough.

Whether you are sailing near shore or out of sight of land, you need to be aware of the wind at all times.

Docking in high wind conditions can be difficult and even dangerous. Under such conditions, it may be wise to remain offshore until conditions improve. If, on the other hand, conditions are worsening, it may be prudent to seek shelter in a sheltered anchorage.

When heading out on the water, boaters should know what to expect from the wind.

 

Marine Weather Wind Warnings:

Strong Wind Warning – 20-33 kts

Gale Warning – 34-47 kts

Storm Warming – 48-63 kts

Hurricane Warning – Greater than 63 kts.

 

Check your local forecast before casting off.